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Crazy Wines and Crazy Good Cheese

Wednesday, July 30th, 2008 | Dessert Wine, Hudson Valley, New York | No Comments

Although Pazdar Winerywas one of the first booths we saw, we decided to save it until the end because we noted that they were offering up sweet wines for tasting. With names like “Hot Sin” and ”Eden’s Pleasure” (both of which we tasted and ultimately purchased), I think Pazdar gets the star for most creative wine names. They create unique dessert wines from grapes, fruit juices, and herbs and spices. Eden’s Pleasure ($15), for example, has a very distinct chocolate-banana flavor. The chocolate is no coincidence, as the cocoa is ground at the winery to ensure its quality and then it is added to the wine. Similarly, the winemaker grinds the cinnamon that goes into Hot Sin ($12) which I purchased specifically to serve with apple pie this Thanksgiving. Unfortunately, the winery is closed to the public, but you can order online or else catch them at wine events around the region. Their interesting wines are definitely worth a taste.

Also worth seeking out if you’re in the Hudson Valley is Sprout Creek Farm. They were offering samples of their delicious cheeses at Bounty of the Hudson and I am not one to ever pass up cheese. We ended up purchasing their goat cheese, Doe Re Mi, which might be the creamiest, most delicious goat cheese I’ve ever tasted. It is slightly tart and wonderfully fresh. We’ve simply been enjoying it spread on fresh baguette, but I’m sure there are more creative ways you could use this chevre. We also bought a chunk of smoked Ouray, which is a raw, cow’s milk cheese that has a slightly sharp yet buttery flavor. It has a firm texture and the smoked version has and extra dimension of flavor. It has an edible rind and we’ve enjoyed it as a snack with dry sausage and olives. We enjoyed everything they offered, but these two stood out for us.

Benmarl Winery: Baco Noir & Traminette

Tuesday, July 29th, 2008 | Uncategorized | No Comments

This year Benmarl Winerywas host to the Bounty of the Hudson Food & Wine Festival. The winery is situated on a beautiful piece of property overlooking the Hudson River. As you drive up you see grapevines and barns and it’s all quite lovely to look at. I was really looking forward to trying their wines, as I am not sure I had in the past. Benmarl had four of their wines available for tasting: 2006 Estate Baco Noir, 2007 Zinfandel, 2007 Slate Hill White, and 2007 Traminette. Of these four wines, I think their Baco Noir and their Traminette were not only my favorites at their booth, but my favorites of the whole show.

Baco Noir is a French hybrid grape. It is a cross between Folle Blanche (a French grape), and an unknown variety of Vitis riparia (a North American species). Maurice Baco hybridized the grapes, hence the name. Baco Noir is widely grown in New York and it produces a light-to-medium bodied wine, rich in color and flavor. The 2006 Benmarl Baco Noir was an excellent example of this wine — flavors of pepper and dark cherry filled my mouth and the wine had great body to it. It seemed fuller than Baco Noir I’ve had in the past, produced by other wineries. However, at $28, it was over my wine budget for the day and I had to resist buying a bottle.

The Traminette grape is another hybrid. It is a cross between Joannes Seyve and Gewürztraminer. It is characteristically dry and spicy. My taste of the 2006 Benmarl Traminette was my first (known) taste of this grape. I immediately was reminded of New Zealand Sauvignon Blanc (Goose Bay, in particular). The winemaker told me that he also thought it had some Sauv Blanc characteristics. It was dry, but not bone-dry — plenty of fruit was apparent including gooseberry and citrus. The finish was clean. At $15, there was no way I was leaving the event without a bottle of this. I thought it was a great price for some amazing local wine.

Bounty of the Hudson 2008

Monday, July 28th, 2008 | Hudson Valley, New York | 1 Comment

What an amazing time we had at the 2008 Bounty of the Hudson Food & Wine Festival yesterday! I’ll be writing about some of the great wines in detail as the week goes on, but I just wanted to say how impressed I was with many of the wineries that attended. I kind of feel like the Hudson Valley is the Rodney Dangerfield of the New York wine world. You know — “We don’t get no respect!” And it is true that in the past, some of the wines have been less-than-great. But I think that these local wineries are really stepping it up and producing some great wines. We held back a bit and only came home with six bottles from the festival, but if we had a slightly bigger budget, there are a few more that I would have loved to add to our cellar. Stay tuned for details!

Wine Questions Answered, Part 4

Saturday, July 26th, 2008 | General Wine News | 1 Comment

Last, but not least, I am finally getting to answer Dawn’s question. She wants to know about wine glasses and writes:

Is it important to serve different types of wine in different glasses? What would be the most versatile style to purchase to serve a variety of wines?

Wine glasses can certainly add to the enjoyment of wine. Their special shapes are designed to get the most aroma and flavor out of a particular wine. I don’t know too many people who have a glass for each type of wine (for example, Bordeaux, Pinot Noir, Rose, Riesling). If you browse around the Riedel site, you’ll note that there is a dizzying array of glasses. I suppose if you had unlimited storage space, it would be cool to have them all, but I don’t know too many people who have that kind of space (or money).

You will do just fine with three types of wine glasses:

• A red wine glass - taller and wider
• A white wine glass - similar to red wine glasses, but smaller
• A flute - tall and slender glass for sparkling wines

You might also want a specific glass for Ports and sweet dessert wines, but I use a brandy snifter. Not everyone will agree with me. There is a good piece at Avenue Vine that offers some great advice and does a fantastic job of explaining the different glasses.

While expensive stemware like Riedel is wonderful, you also should keep in mind your budget and lifestyle. For example, I’m a klutz and have two small boys. I’ll admire Riedel from their catalog. But my glasses come from Bed, Bath, and Beyond in a party pack

Wine Questions Answered, Part 3

Saturday, July 26th, 2008 | Wines Under $20 | 3 Comments

My poor friend Paula has been so patient as I finally get to answering her questions. Here they are!

What are your recommendations for good wines under $10? We typically go for Yellowtail’s line and especially like their chardonnay - how does that rate in the wine world?

First let me say that you can’t always let popular (or unpopular for that matter) dictate what you buy. Yellow Tail is often the butt of jokes in wine circles because it’s mass-market wine, it is inexpensive, and honestly — a lot of people are really snobby and have high expectations. While it is true that as you learn more about wine, stuff like Yellow Tail will become less interesting to you, if you like it - drink it! Personally, I don’t have a big problem with Yellow Tail. It’s not my “go to” wine, even in the budget price range, but I have certainly tasted worse (and often they cost more money). My favorite wine in the under $10 category (and go ahead fellow wine bloggers — laugh all you want) is Crane Lake. I have only tasted their Cabernet Sauvignon and their Chardonnay, but I find it to be a great value brand. Perhaps the wine is not particularly nuanced, but for an everyday red or white it fits the bill. (In fact, we have a case of the Cab in our basement.) Columbia Crest is great for around the $10 range (it might be more like $12 in some places — as you know, New York and Connecticut prices tend to skew higher). And I think that Stimson Chardonnay is respectable as well. When we had the store, it was probably our most popular wine in magnum-sized bottles. And don’t be afraid to ask someone at the wine shop for a recommendation. I was always happy to show people that there is good wine out there for every price range!

Can you explain basic wine terms, like “nose”, “bouquet”, etc. and why they are important?
Every industry has its own jargon and the wine world is no different. Instead of listing all the important wine terms, I’m just going to point you to an online glossary of terms. They’re important because some of the terms relate to specific aspects of wine tasting. But you don’t need to know them to enjoy the experience.

I think I recall a rumor that you are not to wash wine glasses with soap, just hot water - is there any truth to that?
I’ve heard that too and I’m sure there are people who don’t use soap, but as someone who is slightly germophobic, I do. I don’t do anything special. I use my regular dishwashing soap, but I do make sure they are rinsed well. Soap can leave a residue which may alter the way a wine tastes (thus the advise to avoid it). I’ve also heard that you should always let your glasses drip dry because laundry soap residue from a towel could transfer to the glass. When I am tasting a wine and taking notes, I do take care to make sure my glasses are free from potential residue, but I don’t worry about it for day-to-day drinking.

For Real, Millbrook?

Thursday, July 17th, 2008 | Hudson Valley, New York | 2 Comments

I am one of those people who believes in doing something to the fullest. If you claim to be something, then be it with all your heart. Don’t try to dilute it by saying you’re just like something else.

Sunday night after the boys were in bed, I was relaxing while reading the newspaper. As I made my way through the front section, I noticed this ad for Millbrook Vineyards & Winery on page 6A of the Poughkeepsie Journal. Immediately I became annoyed. Check out the headline (which I circled in yellow) and maybe you’ll understand why. Millbrook enjoys the distinction of being probably the most recognized name in the Hudson Valley wine region. And although wines from this region are not as celebrated as those from Long Island or the Finger Lakes, I think that overall Millbrook makes a good showing as a New York winery in general.

Why then, did they choose that headline for their ad? “All the beauty of France, all the taste of California…” First let’s tackle “all the beauty of France.” Naturally, as a Hudson Valley resident, I am quite partial to this area and I think it is beautiful. I would agree that France is just as beautiful. But why make the comparison? Do people really think that quaint, little Millbrook is a dump? I seriously doubt it. This area gets plenty of “leafers” (to borrow a term from “The Family Guy”). There are many people from the city who have weekend homes up this way in order to get away from it all. So I think it’s safe to say that you don’t need to lure people with “the beauty of France.”

Next, and more important, let’s think about “the taste of California.” If I didn’t know better, that headline would make me think that all of Millbrook’s wines are made with juice shipped from California. Now, that’s true to an extent. Some of their wines aremade with California grapes. Millbrook’s Pinot Grigio, Gewurztraminer, and Hunt Country White are all made with grapes grown on California’s Central Coast. But their Tocai Friulano, their Castle Hill Chardonnay, Chardonnay Proprietor’s Special Reserve, and their Hunt Country Rosé are made with New York grapes. Besides, Millbrook likes to make a big deal over their trellis system and the grape vines are first things you see as you drive up to the winery. They’re not making jam with all those grapes! 

Are Hudson Valley wines so bad that even the Hudson Valley wineries themselves feel the need to lure people here with promises of a California wine experience? If that’s true, people will be disappointed because wines from New York generally don’t taste very much like wines from the West Coast. Personally, I think the ad gives the wrong message. I’d hope that in the future Millbrook will use its status to do what it can to show people how to appreciate Hudson Valley wines for their unique character. After all, if I want a California wine, I’m going to drink a California wine. When I want something different, I’m going to look to other wine regions (like New York) to broaden my palate and create new wine experiences.

Around Town: Alison Winery

Saturday, July 12th, 2008 | Hudson Valley, New York | No Comments

This morning I decided I wanted to make blueberry cobbler, so bright and early we headed over to Greig Farm to pick some berries. Alison Winery is located there as well, and although it wasn’t open for tasting yet (this was all of 9:30 a.m., mind you), we hung around to enjoy the scenery. So, in lieu of actual wine content, I hope you’ll enjoy looking at a few photos of one of the nearby Hudson Valley wineries.

Might Be A Slow Three Weeks ‘Round Here…

Saturday, July 5th, 2008 | Wine Blogs | No Comments

Just a little administrative note to let you know that the next three weeks might be quiet ’round these parts. Thursday I was diagnosed with Lyme Disease and I’m on a three-week course of strong antibiotics. While neither my doctor nor the information that came with the medication said anything about avoiding alcohol, I have heard various things about mixing alcohol and antibiotics. Some say it reduces their effectiveness. Others say it can cause side effects. And still others say nothing at all happens. Well, I’m just not taking any chances. I was lucky to have caught it quickly and after a few days of feeling probably the most awful in my lifetime, I think I am on the upswing now and want to keep it that way :-)

I’ll try to fill in with any news of interest that comes my way, and I still have two posts in my “wine questions” series left to answer, but obviously I won’t be posting any tasting notes until the 21 days are over. Maybe I can convince Drew to write a post or two while I’m teetotalling

The Federal, Agawam, MA

Wednesday, July 2nd, 2008 | Restaurants | 1 Comment

Last Christmas, my brother and his wife gave me and Drew a gift card for The Federal in Agawam, MA. They had their wedding rehearsal dinner there and it’s a fantastic restaurant that I guess I’d classify as “New American” cuisine. There are a lot of French influences, which I personally enjoy, and influences from Asian and Mexican cuisines as well. Their menu is eclectic and innovative and all-around yummy.

The four of us had dinner there on Friday night and it was fantastic! Instead of ordering a bottle of wine, we opted to bring our own. This can save you a decent amount of money, and most restaurants don’t have a problem with it. Though, I always ask in advance. They’ll charge a corkage fee, but often that fee is less than any bottle of wine on their list. You’ll also want to be sure that the bottle of wine you’re bringing isn’t already on their wine list. It should be something special. We brought a bottle of 2005 Frog’s Leap Merlot, which retails for around $35. With the corkage fee of $20, I suspect the money we paid for both was still less than a typical restaurant mark-up. I would like to say, though, that their wine list was extensive and had nice selections for all price ranges.

We started by sharing two appetizers: a “bucket of balls” and foie gras a la mode. The Parmesan risotto balls are made with fresh black truffled butter and snipped chives. My brother was insistent that we order these and truthfully, to me they seemed like the least exciting appetizer on the menu. However, when they arrived there was no getting around it: they were absolutely delicious and I could understand why we had to have them. In addition to the “bucket” (really, a lovely bowl containing about 12 risotto balls), each table gets a sample risotto ball, so even if you don’t order them you’ll get to experience them.

I was dying to to try the “lacquered” foie gras “a la mode” with caramelized peaches, Sauternes soaked pound cake & toasted almond gelato. I don’t think I’ve had foie gras since our honeymoon in France (seven years ago), so I was really looking forward to trying it again. The contrast of flavors and textures was wonderful, and the appetizer did not disappoint. Even my brother, who was reluctant to try it (to say the least), admitted that there are other things he likes less Trust me — that’s a compliment.

For my entree I ordered the veal cheeks which were served with charred asparagus, fried crab cakes, piquillo peppers, salted lime aioli, and chimichurri sauce. I’d never had veal cheeks before and wasn’t sure what to expect, but I had heard that when done right, they are phenomenal. And they were. The veal cheeks were melt-in-your-mouth tender and the chimichurri sauce added a fantastic freshness to the dish. Other dishes at the table included the truffled macaroni and cheese with braised short ribs, the seared Atlantic salmon atop sweet corn succotash, and the slow roasted pork tenderloin. We were a table full of happy diners! The portions were very generous too — if you don’t come with a very heart appetite, expect to take a little home to enjoy for lunch the next day.

We were too full for dessert, unfortunately. Next time I’ll account for that. Service was impeccable and our waiter was very attentive. The only part of the night that was even remotely unpleasant was a rather loud guest at a nearby table. He apparently was the be-all, end-all authority on wine and had one of those voices that carried. We were able to laugh it off, but I do wish people were conscious of their volume when they dine out. It’s not like it’s a 99 Restaurant — it’s a fine dining establishment. As my child’s teacher would say, “Please use your inside voice!”

If you ever find yourself looking for a great special occasion restaurant in Western Massachusetts, you should check out The Federal. It’s really popular, so make reservations, but you won’t be disappointed. Visit them on the Web at www.thefederal.com.